"She makes hungry Where most she satisfies." from "Anthony & Cleopatra" William Shakespeare
My first trip to Paris was a drive-by on my way to somewhere else. It was just a glimpse but it was also a Coup de Foudre! (love at 1st sight) I couldn't wait to return! Now, even though I have been there countless times (including a 3 year stint working for CHANEL as director of global marketing & product development) I am always hungry for the next trip.
Paris is a city of many things: the first city to have street lamps (City of Light), the oldest continuously run cafe in the world (Le Procope 1686), the first home of hot chocolate (1659 near the Louvre*), the debut of Haute Couture (1858 House of Worth), the birthplace of Gothic architecture, host of the first World's Fair (1855) and just last year, the first gender-equal Olympic Games (2024).
Specifically, I love Paris for:
- the beauty of its architecture, bridges & public gardens which make walking a constant pleasure; (The city captures hearts ... It is not surprising to me that even during WWII, the German military governor of Paris Dietrich von Choltitz refused Hitler's command to destroy its bridges and monuments. To learn more, read "Is Paris Burning" by Larry Collins & Dominique LaPierre)
- its neighborhood restaurants & cafes where one is welcome to partake of life's essential pleasure - a good meal;
- its shop windows - especially in the 6th & 7th Arrondissements (Arr) - where shopkeepers seem to have magical merchandising skills - as Everything looks inviting;
- its markets & especially Les Puces de St. Ouen! I managed to kit out my apartment on Quai de la Megisserie in the 1st Arr with treasures from the Puces antique dealers balanced with investments from furniture craftsmen along the rue du Bac in the 7th Arr.
- the French. It has been my experience that good manners & humor succeeds in most situations.
I often get asked for recommendations on what to see & do in Paris. The list frequently changes depending on the traveler's interests. However, one thing never changes ... When visiting Paris take time to become a FLÂNEUR. Yes, the French have a word for strolling with no specific agenda other than to observe & enjoy. Hemingway called Paris a Moveable Feast ... I couldn't agree more. So, bring a comfortable pair of shoes and block out some time to wander.
My favorite walk takes me through the heart of Paris or the 1st through the 8th Arrondissements (Arr). The general outline is listed below. But, add & subtract as your stamina and interest demand.
1. As I lived in the 1st Arr, I usually begin at Place Vendôme, home of the Vendôme Column built by Napoleon to commemorate his victory at Austerlitz. It is also the location of the Hotel Ritz as well as boutiques for Schiaparelli, Chanel Jouallerie, Boucheron, Chaumet & Van Clef & Arpels. 
2. From Place Vendôme, walk Northwest (if you are facing the Seine, turn right) onto Rue St. Honore which turns into Faubourg St. Honore. You pass the world of luxury boutiques and amazing antique jewelers such as Dary's (362 rue St Honore) whose 2 windows are packed with treasures and always tempt me. You will also pass rue Cambon - home of the original Chanel Boutique (#31) along with its haute couture salon & Coco's original apartment - still kept in its original condition ... Fabulous interiors!!
3. Turn left on Ave de Marigny and walk across the Ave des Champs Elysées to Ave du Général Eisenhower, past the Grand & Petit Palais and across my favorite bridge Le Pont Alexandre III. STOP on the bridge to admire the VIEW (Eiffel Tower, Les Invalides, the river ... Just Wow!)
4. From the Left Bank side of the bridge, walk straight towards Les Invalides (Napoleon's Tomb) on rue Fabert. Just in front of Les Invalides take a left on rue de Grenelle in the heart of the 7th Arr. Turn left when you reach rue du Bac. Walk towards the Seine until you turn right on rue Jacob.
5. Now you are in the heart of the 6th Arr design neighborhood full of interesting curated shops and leading fabric houses such as Pierre Frey which straddles the corners of Place von Furstenburg & rue Jacob.
6. Turn right on rue de Seine and then left on rue de Buci and then left again on rue Dauphine. These are small streets full of art galleries and small boutiques.
7. Follow rue Dauphine across the Seine on Pont Neuf to the scenic tip of Ile de la Cité (and the lovely Place Dauphine). Then back to the right bank in the 1st Arr and rue de Monnaie. The Samaritaine department store/hotel/restaurant complex (fabulous views from the rooftop restaurant/bar!) is on your left. But, turn right on Quai de la Megisserie and walk along the quai past the Hotel de Ville to Quai des Celestins. Left on rue Saint-Paul then right on rue Saint-Antoine then left again on rue de Birague which empties into Place des Vosges.
8. Place des Vosges is the oldest planned square in Paris and straddles the line between the 3rd & 4th Arr. Among cafes and art galleries, it houses the sublime restaurant L'Amboisie (#9 Pl. des Vosges) and the boutique hotel, Le Pavillion de la Reine (#28).
9. Walk through to the other side of Pl de Vosges and turn left on rue des Francs Bourgeouis. Turn left on rue Vieille du Temple and walk until it reaches rue de Rivoli. These two streets will take you through a scenic part of the Marais which is the oldest quartier in Paris.
10. Take a right on rue de Rivoli through Le Chatelet. Past Chatelet turn right on Place du Palais Royal, then left on rue Saint-Honoré where you will find the Palais Royal complex (Cour d'Honneur, Galleria d'Orléans & le Jardin du Palais Royal). Take a detour to walk through the inspiring Colonnes de Buren, a black/white installation by artist Daniel Buren & to stroll through the garden & the boutiques & galleries that flank it. The famous candle lit restaurant Le Grand Vefour (#17 rue de Beaujolais) is also located there. It is a magnificient complex with much coveted apartments above the street level. Among the famous residents: the writer Colette.
11. Follow rue Saint-Honore northeast past many interesting boutiques & cafes including my favorite place to purchase des fruits confits (sugar glazed slices of lemons & oranges) at Café Verlet (#256). Walk until Saint-Honore meets rue de Castiglione where my favorite hotel & home-away-from-home is located, Hotel Costes (#7). Turn right on Castiglione and you will find yourself back at Place Vendôme. Voila - you've blown up your weekly step goal in one day!
* I didn't forget about that hot chocolate! Although it has become TOO well known and has the queues to prove it, Angelina's is famous for their signature Le Chocolat Chaud à l'Ancienne. The thickest, richest hot chocolate you will experience; served in a small pitcher with a side of whipped creme. (# 226 rue de Rivoli in the 1st Arr)
